Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Anyone shoot paint?

I'm painting my recently purchased Davida classic "clone". My plan is to closely match the bike. Green sides, silver "slash" and gold hand-applied pin stripes where the "slash meets the sides".

I'm using Testers rattle-can enamel (amazing how the paint closey matches Goodwood Green) and the green sides actually turned out pretty good for a first time job. Still need to wet sand with 1500, white rubbing compound, and final finishing compound much later (after the silver slash is completed).

So here's my question. I need to cover the sides and shoot the "slash" in the middle with silver. How long should I wait before applying masking tape on the recently shot sides so only the surface I want to paint is exposed? Is conventional masking tape the way to go, or am I in danger of pulling up the green paint on the sides when it's time to remove the tape?

So, how long to wait before taping and is masking tape OK?

Thanks for any guidance.....

Regards,

Tom

Paint easily bleeds under normal masking tape and could botch the job. There are types of masking tape that prevent bleeding of the paint. My experience in using them is to also make sure they are well adhered to the edge you want to look good. I usualy run a fingernail down that edge.

Most auto parts stores and paint stores carry the right stuff.

A day of dry time is probably good, but I have also hastily taped off a few hours later with success on small jobs.

Good luck!

Gerry

Tom,
I don't know how long but suggest two things to avoid a FU. Paint an additional item of no consequence - wait until that sacrificial object is no longer tacky, then wait a tad longer. The second - Use that blue painter's tape - Its far less sticky and the chance of "pulling" something off will be greatly reduced.

One thing I never thought of and was taught when shooting paint. You must remove masking tape before the paint is totally set up, if not it will pull the paint off with the tape. I had masked off for a graphic and peeled the tape off within approx. ten minutes of shooting it.

After you tape, shoot clear along the tape line. Any bleed through will be clear.

use 3m fineline then regular tape. be VERY careful with enamel as if you make any mistake there is no fixing it. base coat clear coat would be the best way to go

Frank

Thanks guys,

The blue masking tape (rated a little less than medium in the stickiness department) worked great. Tape removal soon after "initial" drying was a good tip.

Next question I have concerns "clear coating". Logically you shoot this after the wet-sanding, white rubbing compound, finishing compound, and pin-striping sequence. Is my logic flawed?

Recommendations on a rattle-can clear coat that can be shot on enamel? Once the clear coat is shot do you treat it like paint for finishing? ie, wet sanding, white rubbing compound, finishing compound, and eventually wax?

I was thinking about skipping the clear coat entirely as this is only a cheap helmet I'm practicing my very amateurish skill on, but what the hey, I'm on a roll.

Appreciate your patience,

Tom

in order for the paint to stick it needs somthing with a "tooth" wet sanding your color coat will give it that tooth "polishing" will remove that tooth...a wet "color sand" with something in the 1K plus grit should prep the surface for clear...at least thats the way it was 25+ years ago...with some of the newer paint systems this may be different but not the "tooth" thing

Tom, I shoot a lot of clear coat in my cue work gig. Disclaimer...I DO NOT paint cars. I would think you would do all of your color work, base coat, silver horns, striping; wipe down with some lacquer thinner and shoot a coat of clear. If you use a spot panel clear it will be dry enough to wet sand in about 3-4 hours( I currently shoot R&M DC76). Go to wally world in the automotive section and pick up one of those variety packs of 3M wet dry sandpaper( the 3m part is critical, I have used others and well....they SUCK!) grits in the pack should be 600, 1000, 1500, 2000. Go back to the project, run some warm water in a tupperware/plastic thingy and add a couple drops of dishwashing soap. Next fold a piece of the 600 into thirds, dunk it in the water and lightly sand the helmet until the clearcoat no longer has any "clear" spots or take it down as far as you dare. If you feel that you are about to sand through the clear stop. Wipe with lacquer thinner and shoot your next coat....rinse, repeat, etc. unitl you get the build that you want(cant feel the strips)

Whew, lots a typin. Wet sand the lid lightly through all the grits, wipe down and take a buffer with a foam wheel and squeeze a thin line of compound on the wheel ( note a little of it does fine, a lot slings all over you and the shop). Lightly buff until the gloss comes back in to the finish. Note: DO NOT wax the lid for at least 30 days, if ya do, you will get "solvent pop"...clear will look like it has little craters all over it....dont ask how I know that

Hopefully, at this point you are completely confused. If I can create any further turmoil for you, please, do not hesitate to ask.

My experience with rattle can clear is that it yellows very rapidly when exposed to UV...a skid lid would get lots O exposure.

Seriously, that is how I would approach the project.

Thanks guys! Appreciate your time for the reply. I was under the incorrect assumption that "clear coating" was similar to putting polyurethane on hardwood floors. ie. finishing off the base and applying a sealant of sorts. Looks like I was way off the mark.

Appears that you apply the "clear coat" to the wet sanded (dull) color finish, reapply to the desired number of coats with wet sanding in-between, then go through the polishing cycle, careful not to wax until a lengthy period of time later. I understand the importance of careful cleaning/tacking after each wet sanding and next "clear coat".

Appreciate the input!

Tom